![]() Toggles would be my suggestion for anything larger than 20 lbs (but under 60 lbs), that absolutely cannot meet the floor. I also personally prefer hexhead vs Phillips as it's so much easier to drive in.ĭefinitely wont need to go the lag bolt route. Going too long is also not great as it won't give you any benefit where only the last part of the screw is threaded, and block is hollow so you may actually decrease the embedded portion of thread. You want a little longer screw, probably a 2 3/4" would do. Once you include the thickness of the mount you're under an inch. In your case 1/2" of drywall + 3/4" (ie actual thickness of the 1x4) of furring strip will leave an inch of embedded thread in the wall on a 2 1/4" screw. I'd get 1/4".Īs for length of the screw, keep in mind the minimum embedded depth per the spec is 1". In my house the block seems to crumble a little, so I've found using a one size down drill bit and impact driver works better for me, but I'd try the recommended size first and see.Įven 3/16 is probably ok to hold a TV per that spec, particularly as that mount uses four of them. Tapcons are my go to as they're so easy to use, but I've had issues with them holding in block reliably as compared to proper concrete. ![]() You know what kind of glue holds well enough?" "Uhhh, I'm not sure, uh.I'm not a contractor but I've had some experience mounting heavy shit on block walls, and it hasn't fallen off yet. I gave up on glue/epoxy, since the guy said, "sometimes, they glue them to concrete." "Yep. I wasn't into experimenting to discover I had a second case of tack strips that were useless, and then another hour trip to get something I knew would work. 2 rated the product as a 1 out of 5 stars, saying the nails weren't robust enough and bent more than half the time. You know what kind of glue holds well enough?" "Uhhh, I'm not sure, uh."Įdit: oh, and the thing that cemented (pun intended) my decision: 3 reviews of the tack strips with concrete nails in them. Turns out that when they're helpful, it's even worse than when you can't find an employee.Įdit: oh, and the thing that cemented (pun intended) my decision: 3 reviews of the tack strips with concrete nails in them. Normally, I find the stuff myself but someone actually offered assistance. He was as useless as the guy who took me to the section for carpet transition pieces when I clearly explained that I wanted the t-transition piece that matched the oak to go from engineered hardwood to tile. ![]() ![]() I put that in quotes, because to speed things up a bit, I wanted some plastic anchors that you simply drive a nail into, rather than screw into. I had the bit that came with a box of tapcon screws the "knowledgeable" person in the aisle said that those bits work well with things like cinder blocks, but suck for concrete. I ended up just getting a new, better bit for the drill yes, hammer drill. You'd have to be a fool to rent instead of buy it, given the relative prices. glue?Īnd, what the heck, Home Depot? "Cool! Home Depot rents tools! I'll rent a carpet kicker!" Bull****, Home Depot. Hole 3: stopped dead in its tracks after 1/2", never made progress, burned up the cheap concrete bit that came with the anchors. I'm not sure what kind of aggregate was used, but hole 1 - in like it was going through butter for 3/4", then stopped dead in its tracks for 10 seconds, then slowly went to the required depth. I'm not afraid to drill - attempted that last night killed the bit in 2 holes. Nail down strips (I think) might chip off the concrete instead of holding the strips down. Since it's a floating floor that butts up to concrete block, the strips are 3/4" from the edge. Anyone know what type of glue to use for bonding carpet tack strips to concrete? I'm doing it myself, so waiting 24 hours to install the carpet is no problem. ![]()
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